Saturday, September 18, 2010

Leave the food alone!

I was recently drawn to an article that appeared on the website of Perez Hilton about coloured bacon. I swear to you there are people who are making bacon in all colours of the rainbow. This is actually a porcine pride flag. I kid you not – and if you want to look, pop to http://bacontoday.com/colored-bacon/ and check it out. The guy that created it is a graphic designer and has come up with an idea that makes the bacon taste the same and retain its colour event after it has been cooked. This has got me to thinking about the changes in the way we cook and eat.

Rene Redzepi, recently named the best chef in the world, is from Noma in Copenhagen. Items on his menu include some interesting combinations of food. And anyone who has watched a moment of anything Heston Blumenthal would know that he has done some amazing things with food that most might find a little out of their realm of understanding.

But where is all this experimentation taking us? How long will food look like it does now and for how long will we recognise it as the stuff we know now? The father of Molecular Gastronomy, Herve This, suggests that these are the current objectives of the movement:

Looking for the mechanisms of culinary transformations and processes (from a chemical and physical point of view) in three areas:
1. the social phenomena linked to culinary activity
2. the artistic component of culinary activity
3. the technical component of culinary activity

Now I don’t know about your thoughts on all of this but I have some and it behoves me to share them with you here. So here are my Ten Commandments for leaving food alone.
1. If it aint broke – don’t fix it. Carrots should taste like carrots, not cocoa butter. Vegetables are great sources of important nutrients. Leave them alone.

2. Sausages are supposed to be cooked on a barbeque, or a grill. They are not to be cooked in a vacuum so they look like the raw intestines of a bovine and retain their raw texture. That’s why we cook them.

3. Food does not require ‘foam’ unless of course it is a cappuccino or a hot chocolate. I understand the technique, but just leave it as a sauce.

4. Sand is something that lives on the beach. There is a reason. Sand anywhere else is uncomfortable. Like in your budgie smugglers or your bed. So keep sand off my plate. Whether it is made of liquorice root or the scrapings from the inside of a goats ear – it is still sand.

5. Feet, snouts and ears are body parts that have a purpose – and those purposes are not for human consumption. They are, and should remain, something that Fido or some other canine creature should chew on to leave your slippers alone.

6. Offal is something that Nana used to eat because, well it was a freaking depression and they had no money. Offal is not a main course. Tripe, brains and other glands should be used to make pet food.

7. Food should be able to be thrown together in an hour or two. Anything that takes a day and a half to prepare is unnecessary and a waste of everyone’s time.

8. Food should retain it natural colour and texture – not be deconstructed, pulled apart, and remade to resemble itself. Why waste all that time pulling something apart only to remake it as itself? This is nonsense.

9. Most food should be cooked. People who live only on raw food are not right in the head. I don’t mind a plate of sashimi or a carpaccio of Wagyu beef, but on the whole, surviving only on raw food means you are slightly odd.

10. Meat and fish in tins is pet food. Whether the producers add some sundried tomatoes and basil, or it is in olive oil, brine or milk from cows that have been hand fed by nubile virgins. The end result is it remains fish and meat in tins and should only be fed to your pets.

That’s my take on it all and you may not agree. It is my opinion and that’s why they pay me the big bucks to write this column!!

Food Porn again

Several months ago I wrote about my addiction to food porn, and I am pleased to say it has reached new heights of depravity. Reason, with its sensible shoes and homely cardigans, encourages common sense in a time of the horrid darkness of election campaigns and ice road truckers dominating the viewing time. It is this reason that has departed from my life and I confess I am all agog of what to do.

I scour the papers daily, searching to determine how many of my food fantasies might come true, and to date, so many have. Meeting Heston Blumenthal and Ferran Adria – done. Being in a lift with Jamie Oliver – done. Sitting in awe of David Chang in a Master Class – done and doner! Having dinner with Manu, Pete, Adrian, Miguel, Michel Roux - all done. What in Nigella’s name remains? Nigella herself and can I say, as sick as it sounds, I am somewhat beside myself that Ms Lawson will grace our shores in 2011 as part of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival.

This news is bliss. I don’t know what it is about Nigella or any of these other celebrity culinary boffins that makes me so unreasonable. It can’t be because they are women, as in most cases, this encourages a sense of awe and confusion on my behalf. I think it is mostly that these personages, when hovering above a Miele hob and sweating food platitudes, that my inner core of desire and any of those other deadly sins, is indeed satiated in a way nothing else suffices.

I tried to have casual relationships with food programs and sadly, my attempt at casual satisfaction has failed miserably. Popping in and out of food shows has left me unsatisfied and feeling like a cheat...

It is not like these women and men of the culinary trade are overly special. Perhaps it starts something in my inner core – a spark of wanton desire or lust, greed or avarice. Or perhaps it is just nice clean viewing in a world dominated by smut and bad behaviour – in a world of television that promises much but delivers tits and ass!

There have been ,any viewing moments that have revved my inner core – and so many of those have come from meeting the peoples discussed above, in their finest personage. People who spend their lives creating. Mixing flavour, colour, texture and scent makes them special. Whisking, slicing, chopping and dicing with a sense of flourish and theatre that encourages such delight inside so many of us...

One wonders how we become obsessed with anything – food, sex, cars, chickens, meccano. Each of these obsessions in its own right is a valid and normal thing. The dictionary tells me about obsession:
–noun
1. the domination of one's thoughts or feelings by a persistent idea, image, desire, etc.
2. the idea, image, desire, feeling, etc., itself.
3. the state of being obsessed.
4. the act of obsessing.

How do you become dominated by these thoughts, feelings, or images and desires? Why does the television inform so many of our ideas about food? I think it is because it is doable, because we know how to source and create the food that we are shown, and that we lust after. It is because we reach a realisation that these folk are accessible and that they are just like us. That they weep with sharp onions, that they cut themselves and bleed. It provides us with an opportunity to realise that we can be like them in some small way.

We can make our way to the fridge at midnight to eat a spoon or two of chocolate ganache that we prepared earlier in the day, that we didn’t eat. Nigella can do it, which gives us permission to do it. Jamie has his mates around and knocks up some pucker tucker... and we can do that.

Granted we all cant be like Heston or Ferran or any of the alchemists who meld and divine new flavour from bog standard ingredients... but we can try.

The Melbourne Food and Wine Festival is on again in 2011 and if you want to rub shoulders with some of these food gods and goddesses – get along to an intimate master class and meet them. Your life might never be the same.

Openings and things

There are restaurants opening across Melbourne at a rate of knots... and it seems every time I open the mail there is another launch to attend. Apart from an ever expanding girth and a somewhat damaged liver, I think we are blessed to have the finest of dining culture here in the southern city of class. This has been evidenced of late with several top notch awards coming Melbourne’s way.

Andrew McConnell’s Cutler and Co was awarded the gong for Australian Restaurant of the Year in the Gourmet Traveller awards held just last week. David Lawler in his role as Sommelier at Neil Perry’s Rockpool Bar and Grill took the coveted wine list of the year at Australian Gourmet Traveller Wine’s recent wine list awards, as well as Lawler himself picking up the much prized Judy Hirst award for his passion and skill as a top notch Sommelier. And not ignoring the talents of those in regional Australia, Dan Hunter and the Royal Mail Hotel in Western Victoria’s Dunkeld has won Regional Restaurant of the Year.

Back to the openings though, I was recently at Pandora’s Box on Duke Street, Windsor. Pandora’s is a sister restaurant to Orange that sits merely doors away on Chapel Street. Pandora’s was always going to fare well, and no expense has been spared. Consulting wine maker, Lok Thornton has put together an awesome list, and the food is under the guidance of the talented Matthew Germanchis, formerly of Mo Vida. Even the tiles have been hand made for the bar and floor, with PB initialled in every one of them.

Pandora’s is a shared plate experience, slightly sitting to the tapas edge of dining, but with options to suit all tastes. Don’t go past the wonderful take on a scotch egg – a quails egg has been hidden amongst Bacala or salt cod, then crumbed and fried. When you reach the middle, a gooey yolk from the egg runs down the chin, and is a sensational food experience. Also have a go at some St Helen’s oysters with Riesling jelly, watercress and horseradish. Order at least a half dozen. Then grab a selection of the other tasty tidbits before hoeing into mains. There are a number of options, some more solid than others, including an aged Angus Rump with bone marrow (my favourite indulgence), fine herbs with chips, or maybe a wild Barramundi alongside mussels with fennel & watercress, and ‘Macleay Valley’ rabbit, stifado style served with garlic & lemon kale. The rabbit was a tad dry for my liking, and the barramundi could have dealt with the mussels a little better, but overall, a wonderful dining experience.

There are some dessert options at Pandora’s but after pigging into the salt cod scotch eggs, Mr handsome and I were unable to stomach any more food.

Duck Duck Goose is an entirely different affair. Situated in Artemis lane, just off Lonsdale street, this eatery had a gestation longer than that of an elephant. 3 years in the making, the patient were rewarded with a very stylish melange of traditional chinese food and some high end French haute cuisine. Start at the bar, as they serve 23 different champagne offerings by the glass, including a reasonably priced Krug Grand Cuvee. We cant all afford a bottle but a glass did very nicely thank you. Butter up to the gorgeous Sommelier, Rohan Anderson and be well looked after with your plonk.

Food, as mentioned, is a mish mash. A formal dining area and private dining rooms, in the area known as the dark side, offer up all manner of new and modern, maybe even posh techniques. Foams, splodges, sands, gels and other such scientific explorations accompany high end traditional French cuisine, with smatterings of the Asian influences the Kam Fook group are known for.

You will find foie gras, abalone, shellfish and other such classy desirables popping up on the menu, and one might need a slight advance from the bank manager to splash out on the trusty visa! Kick off with the oxtail and foie gras mille fieulle, something you don’t try every day and certainly something that will get the mouth watering. Keep with the upper crust experience by trying the almost sticky rare venison fillets with a couple of sauce options, calvados (apple brandy), paired with espresso. Yep, espresso... coffee!

The wine list is impressive but this is totally a special occasion event. Its not cheap but there is something there for every one’s taste, everyone’s budget (quite a list by the glass), and you will find some of the much maligned New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc in there, otherwise known to some as slut juice ( I so wish that expression was mine!).

Desserts are as equally spectacular as the remainder of the menu and certainly if you are splashing out, have yourself a cheeky little sweetie, paired with a glass of sticky.

For diners on the light side, expect a very well priced dim sum style of food. Dishes down there start at just $8 and will please any palate that you can muster up. It’s easy to have a dark side, light side experience at Duck Duck Goose – pop into the bar and be seduced by some exquisite champagne, then pop downstairs for a good old fashioned Hong Kong style dim sum meal. The fountain in the middle of the dark side will calm your nerves while you jump on the phone to the finance department, making sure the funds are in the jar to spoil yourself and your date.

Good Food Guide Gongs and goings on,

It’s been a big month, and the Age Good Food Guide 2011 was released to great fan fare. Some awesome results and some honourable mentions to some names that have appeared here in the past five years! Congratulations to Ben Shewry at Attica in Ripponlea. I have trumpeted this man’s astonishing talent for some time and his restaurant, and he was awarded the sash and tiara for Chef of the Year.

Dan Hunter at the Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld richly deserves the Restaurant of the Year gong. Both of these guys are exceptionally talented, exciting chefs and will shape the way we eat for years to come.

We don’t dine like we used to and this is apparent with some of the winners of this year’s awards. We are sharing plates rather than ordering a structured entree, main and dessert style of meal and this is a great thing. There is nothing more convivial than to sit around a table with great food, good wine and lovely company. Try Izakaya Den or Mamasita for this style of food. We have also seen some posh pizza, the continued growth of great pub food and the appreciation of the provenance of food- where it comes from, how it is treated and allowing the ingredients to stand up for themselves without too much fiddling or fussing with it.

This is no better exampled than by the dish of the year for 2011, Loam’s suckling pig. Loam is on a dirt road, about 10 minutes from Drysdale near Geelong, overlooking olive groves with a view of the ocean. Run by Chef Aaron Turner and his wife Astrid, these two are also most worthy of this award, as well as the 2 hats they received and the title of Best New Country Restaurant. They have come a long way in just 14 months and these will be names that will stick with you for some time. These folks are all future captains of our dining industry and if these are the hands we are in, then the future looks bright.

Speaking of bright futures, Melbourne Food and Wine Festival Masterclass tickets will be on sale as this goes to print. With an extraordinary array of wonderful chefs coming from all corners of the globe, this festival will rival those previous events that have seen the likes of Heston Blumenthal of the Fat Duck in Bray, Phillip Howard, the late Rose Gray, Andoni Adruiz, Jamie Oliver and a huge array of wonderful foodies from across the world.

Nigella makes her way down under which regular readers will know has me stiff in the undies. Just as exciting, a slightly lesser known but incredibly more talented Spain’s three Michelin-star chefs Elena Arzak will join her. Arzak is among the inspirational Women of the Kitchen program that will form part of the 2011 Master Class series. Get in for your tickets cos these things sell like hot cakes. A subtle reminder.. its my birthday and all tickets that you wish to purchase on my behalf can be sent care of this magazine. Elena is co-chef with father Juan Mari Arzak and the fourth generation at their eponymous San Sebastian restaurant, in Spain’s gastronomic capital.

The rise and rise of women in the kitchen, and on the world stage continues. One only has to look to the 37 year old Anne-Sophie Pic of France’s La Maison Pic in Valence, only the fourth woman in the world to receive 3 Michelin stars. (Everything that I have is crossed that she will make the journey to Australia for Melbourne Food and Wine Festival in my lifetime.)

Then there is Alice Waters from the US – a modern day, but far more feisty Julia Childs. She is not only a chef, restaurateur, activist, and humanitarian but is also the owner of Chez Panisse, the world-renowned restaurant in Berkeley, California famous for its organic, locally-grown ingredients and for pioneering California cuisine. That’s another woman to add to my bucket list.

A look in our own back yard reveals some women of supreme talent – Karen Martini, Kylie Kwong, Christine Manfield to name just a few – all of whom are blazing great trails. But here we also turn our heads to the grand dames that shaped our industry for decades – Stephanie, Mietta, Maggie and the wonderful Margaret Fulton. Perhaps the rest of the world is catching up to us rather than the other way round.

I am sure as there are many well known women in our industry, there are also many not known who inspire you to enjoy food – from your Mum or your sister, or the young ones that inhabit the kitchens in your local dining haunts. Support them and appreciate them, as well as celebrating their talent.

Thursday, April 15, 2010

Evolution of the Former Fat Bastards

It’s started - Penny (my housemate) and I have decided "enough fat bastards". We moan that we cant fit into our clothes, that our belts are too tight and that we simply are sick of being overweight.

The challenge has started and I am going to subject you to it. You can read about the journey, might help you to sleep at night or could simply bore you to tears ... but while that is happening, we will be shedding pounds quicker than Posh Beckham at a cocktail party.

We started on the weekend but beer and football stood in my way and visitors from interstate really screwed up Penny's start as well, so Monday we started in earnest.
We have taken bread, processed white food, rice, pasta, pastry, nuts, coffee, soft drinks, and most importantly and the hardest thing to give up, is my beloved gift of Bacchus, wine. For someone who works with wine and is ever so fond of a drink, to give this up has been a challenge - it is not forever of course but until the pounds start disappearing, we will be diligent.

We are grumpy, we are cranky and we are waiting for ketosis to kick in so our bodies are using some stored business instead of us stuffing them like silos with food that our bodies don’t need as much of.

Why now? Who knows, apart that from looking at photos and bemoaning the tightness of some of my clothing, its time to start looking after the temple.

Giving up food that one loves is a challenge of enormous proportions. As soul diva Aretha Franklin has said “I think the hardest thing is losing weight. That's the hardest thing more than anything else.” Another quote I found, and I don’t know from who it comes, is “The older you get, the tougher it is to lose weight because by then, your body and your fat are really good friends”. This makes much more sense to me, but I am determined and Penny is as well.

The hard thing is motivation, and we are good for one another. As I sneak to the pantry looking for a sweet biscuit, Penny reminds me that I shouldn’t be. As she craves diet cola or something sweet, I play the voice in her head and remind her that there is an outcome here that will be good for us. The strange thing is that I normally don’t eat sweet biscuits.

I want to be healthier rather than being thin. I couldn’t really give a fig for being thin as I will obsess. But I want to be healthier. I am at an age where this needs to be considered now. Not in 5 years, but now. And as my search for a mate... a penguin... continues, I need to be in my best emotional, mental and physical state to be ready.

I also want to wear clothes as they should be worn, rather than buying things with X in the size. I don’t need to be a small or a medium – I am too ‘big boned’ for that.

So the journey will continue, and to quote Winston Churchill – ‘It will be long, and hard, and there will be no withdrawals’ . Wish us luck.

Wednesday, April 14, 2010

I am a food porn addict

I have to stop my obsession with cooking shows on television. I recently subscribed to that nonsense of paying for television just so I could have my food porn. I blame Matt Preston, as I do for a number of things, and Pete Evans, who I can never be cross at. (Must remind him he is taking me fishing).

Food porn is an interesting thing – people find me a little odd, given that I can happily watch Nigella massage a headless dead featherless chicken near to orgasm, that Jamie can lift my skirt just from the fact that he will cook something a bit offally, and every time Heston Blumenthal comes on to the box, I am stiff in the undies.

My obsession for food porn needs to be dealt with and I am off to my FP group. Hello, my name is Pete and I am a food porn addict.

It is funny using food and porn in the same sentence, given the orgy of indulgence that was Easter. People munching chocolate until their faces and leggings expanded beyond belief, and others pretending that they don’t care for Easter but are secreting away bilbys and Lindt rabbits to eat when the other half is at work or on the loo.

There is a point... Masterchef 2 is about to begin on the box. 50 hopeful Julie Goodwins, or Poh Ling Yeows are lining up to see if they, as ever the bridesmaids must in reality TV, win the second series. (2 lindt bunnies to anyone who remembers the winners of Big Brother 2 or the Biggest Loser 2). Not enough guts to enter the first one, but seeing the success of those contestants from series 1 has allowed them to gather the gumption to have a go now. Good for them and C list celebrity invites I say.

There will be 14 Vics and 14 NSW’s among the many and no doubt, the rivalry will continue through this series. My money is on a young male Victorian (the antithesis of last years winner.)

Entries have been called for Junior Masterchef, and of course we saw super sexy swimmer Eamon Sullivan take home the gong for the celebrity show last year. All I need now is Masterchef up late, Masterchef uncut and Masterchef Survivor. That should cure my aforementioned addiction to food porn.

I was a recent viewer of My Kitchen Rules. I was blogging for a while, annoyed at the sniping queen from Adelaide, loving eventual winners, Veronica and Shadi, and mourning that the title wasn’t taken by Victorians - are they/are they not Clint and Noah. The title should have gone to a Vic couple as we simply have the best food in the world – parochial much?

What did annoy me is that Pete Evans became a sanitised version of himself, and Manu, whilst shedding pounds by the dozen, was allowed to shine. Stand by for the book, the inevitable advertising of paper towels and perhaps a mixed tape not unlike Mr Prestons offering following Masterchef 1.

Matt is up for a Logie award in a few weeks and so is the show. I think this says something about a need for good food on the television to keep us from all becoming fat bastards. The Biggest Loser is there to help we over indulgent once we have cooked and eaten everything in sight. Masterchef is there to inspire us to cook well, and with fresh seasonal produce and it has done that. It broke all sorts of ratings records and has boys and girls cooking croquembouche and ceviche when they could never as much as spelled them.

I love that there is food porn on the tele – I love that Heston and Nigella and Jamie and all of those cooking types are inspiring people to cook and eat, and I love that the bar is being set higher and higher every time I go to some one else’s house to dine.

My name is Pete and I am a food porn addict ...... and I am more than happy to remain so.

Monday, March 29, 2010

Sisters at Cutler and Co

Every now and then, I get to take part in something special. This happens more frequently than my liver would like but Monday 29th March, it was damn the liver.

Andrew McConnell is one talented human being, and when you line up his exceptional food, with the talents of 4 of the most exciting female wine makers in the nation, add in some Jane Faulkner magic as an MC and have it all overseen by the talented Sally Humble, you have a recipe for one hell of a great night. And it was.

Sisters are doing it for themselves featured the wines of Kerri Thompson of KT and the Falcon, the fabulous Kim Chalmers of Chalmers Wines, Rebecca Wilson of Bremerton and very new mum, Sue Bell from Bellweather Wines. The four women sat in a room full of admiration for their exciting talents, and shared the secrets of where they came from and how they managed to develop careers in a industry that is no longer dominated by traditional varietals and men.

Kicking of with some terrific Melva Riesling from KT, the crowd gathered to renew old friendships and make some news ones. Half of the crowd I think are former or current Sunraysians, so it felt a little like old home week!!

Heirloom tomato salad, with marinated vegetables, fromage blanc, tarragon and almond aillade was the first course offered up by Mr McConnell at Cutler and Co. Teamed with KT's Peglidis Riesling and Chalmers 09 Vermentino, we knew a great meal was ahead of us.

Salad Lyonnaise, Frisee Salad with crisp pancetta, garlic sausage, smoked tongue, confit gizzards and poached yolk was the next course, and regardless of the use of the word gizzards, this was another triumph. Bellweather Chardonnay from Tamar Valley in Tassie, and the 08 Bremerton Reserve Chardonnay from SA were teamed here. Bec Wilson's first attempt at Chardonnay was great as was the cooler climate Tamar offering.

My favourite dish of the night was a confit ocean trout, with smoked onion, seaweed vinegar, beetroot and rye. Deftly executed, the marriage of flavour, colour texture and scent was awesome. Teamed with a Chalmers Negroamaro Rosato and a Nero d'Avola, the combination was exquisite.

As if we needed more food, braised goat with white polenta baby carrots and wilted greens followed, all of which were awesome. This was my second meal of goat in a couple of weeks and was awesome. An '06 Bellweather Cabernet Sauvignon from Coonawara, and an 05 Bremerton Reserve Cabernet from Langhorne Creek both worked so very well with the goat and the accoutrement.

Finally, after what should have been a run around the block (but was really a walk outside for some air), we were served a delightful combination of macerated prunes with some chocolate ganache and an earl grey ice cream. A terrific dish and was team with 2 wonderful wines chosen by Sally Humble from Maury, a tiny appellation in southern France. An '05 Maury Mas Amiel Vintage Reserve, and a Mas Amiel Cuvee Speciale 10 ans d'age were excellent.

I am rolling around this morning, contemplating the damage to my body and wondering if I will need to eat before the Easter Bunny finds me.

There are plans for more of the events to happen around Australia, including one in Mildura and one in Adelaide.

Thanks to the amazing team of women who made this happen, especially Kim Chalmers. It was en evening incredibly well spent and I am sure I will have to follow the ladies around the country to ensure I get to do it again.

Wednesday, March 24, 2010

Gala Dinner at Prahran Market - MFWF

Dining among fruit and vegetable stalls, surrounded by strawberries and squash, mangoes and mandarins, under Chinese lanterns in what is the temple of fresh food in Melbourne is not an experience one has every day. From the moment of arrival at this sumptous affair, we were in for so many treats.

Christian Wagstaff designed the market tables with what appeared to be a country theme, and they were beautiful. Sprays of sunflowers, pots of edible herbs that became part of the entrees, hessian overlays on the tables and enough conviviality to sink a ship, the space was transformed to an evening in the country.

Roving the market were some very talented dancer/actor/juggling/theatrey type folk, some of whom were hard to keep eyes and hands off! They added some wonderful atmosphere to the evening as we wandered through so many courses of indulgence. French named wines from California complimented each course and I am pleased to say I saw my fair share!

The food was prepared by the stars of America visiting chefs, who had taken up residence at Crown.

Sea scallops as an entree were terrific, and snipping little pots of basil, corainder, watercress and other fines herbs over the top was part of the fun, and they all sat well with the pomegranate seeds that seemed to be everywhere this year.

Fish followed - and what a dish. Again, self service from the fish plates along with more snippy snips on the herbs allowed one to indulge one's preferences with ease.

Lamb racks came next and were accompanied by some kipfler potatoes, asparagus and other bits and bobs, some of which could have had a bit more time over the heat. Slightly raw potatoes and asparagus is not the end of the world however and the lamb itself was delicious. More wine from Coldstream Hills and California flowed with the conversations and the walking between market stalls to enjoy the company of the several hundred guests that were gathered.

Dessert is never something I indulge in, however, I couldn't stop. In an homage to cheesecake, Nonna's Torta, served with three types of Victorian honey was absolutely sublime... Crisp top, a not too sweet cheesy type filling on a crisp base with the honeys was exceptional, and my highlight of the dinner.

The crowd moved out to market square to enjoy more wine, cocktails, coffee and pastries, cheeses and all manner of indulgent goodies and before I knew, it was very late and new and old friendships were kindled over many of these goodies.

In what is always my highlight of the festival, I can safely say that MFWF and The Stars of America gave us a perfect evening of indulgence, and allowed me to start preparing my liver and other organs for next year's festivities.

World's Longest Lunch

What happens when you throw 1000 people together, along some very well presented tables, that run the length of one of Melbourne's main thoroughfares? The World's Longest Lunch .. one of a series of longest lunches to happen across Victoria to kick of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival.

And what a lunch it was. I am not sure how many of these I have now attended, but I can recall getting home from at least 4 of them at some stage that could easily be described as a long time after lunch.

Under the knowing hand of Tony Tan, one of the Creative Directors of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival, I can safely say that this was the best food I had consumed at one of these events. A celebration of all things cultural, Chinese and Melbourne, tables were decked out along the front of the National Gallery of Victoria and the Arts Centre forecourt.

With Peter Rowland managing the catering for 1000 hungry mouths,a mixed entree that included soft shell crab with black beans, four seasons dumpling and chilli spiced duck salad was terrifically presented and pleasing to the gob. Exceptional company at the table and a series of new best friends to enjoy the food with made the experience even better. Wines from Scotchmans Hill on the Bellarine Peninsula suffered a little in the glorious sunshine that shone over the event for the day.

A main course of lamb cooked in a master stock was deftly handled and tasted terrific. Again, with 1000 hungry folk, the possibility of cocking this up was higher than usual but happily, it was excellent. Harder to execute was a dessert - terracotta teapots held some dry ice with a stunning coconut sorbet on top, all arriving to the table without melting, alongside mango brulee with lychees,
poached peach and raspberry coulis and sesame tuile. Poached is a loose term in reference to the peach but apart from that, another difficult dish pulled off well.

Parades of Chinese themed entertainment with dragons, parasols and martial arts displays lent some theatre to the lunch.

My news best friends and I ended up in the National Gallery after lunch perusing the Mueck exhibition, and strangely, more wine, martinis and a sumptuous dinner at La Luna in Carlton closed out the day.

Looking forward to next years gathering where no doubt there will be more new best friends made and another reason to take lunch to dinner as we celebrate all that is good in Melbourne in March at the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival.

Appropriately Long Lunch

Sommeliers Australia knows how to bang together a lunch that showcases exceptional wines, matched with some of the best regional produce and chefs to cook it, in a room that has seen a lot of action in its years - Ormond Hall.

This was the third of these events that Ben Edwards and Dan Sims have produced for the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival - and might I say, they get better every year.

With a table full of appropriately wine and food loving folk, and an opportunity to share some wonderful experiences - the day started very well.

The Provenance (Michael Ryan) gave us a fresh zucchini and tomato dish with Parmesan jelly - a good way to start the day. Wines were well matched.

The Loam's Aaron Turner, who is used to feeding 40, turned out 210 quail dishes, served with tapioca and whey potatoes - they were terrific, but could have done with just a little more punch for me. Great texture, a bit short on flavour.

From Red Cliffs Old Fire Station, almost a suburb of Mildura in the Sunraysia district, Stefano di Pieri's former right hand man, Ash Allford served us some local goat on polenta that had been braising for goodness knows how long. Apart from it being a little watery, it was excellent. There was a lot of love in that room for the young goat. A citrus gremolata cut through to soften the richness of the Mallee goat. Nicely played.

Cheese was from the Yarra Valley dairy and was terrific, and Pierre Roelofs created a wonderful dessert with corn, mandarin chocolate and other bits and pieces. I had to pass on this, not from overindulgence but a lack of love for the sweetie things at the end of lunch.

Sommeliers David Clarke from Vue de Monde, Jeanette Clarke of La Vita Buona, Penny Grant from Maze, Mark Protheroe from Charcoal Grill on the Hill and Carly Haren from Collins Quarter matched 2 wines with every course. Stand out wines for this little black duck's palate included the Chalmers Aglianico, 2005 – Murray Darling, Victoria, and the Lethbridge ‘Menage a Noir’ Pinot Noir, 2008 – Geelong, Victoria.

The Boys and their team at Somms Australia are to be congratulated - not only do we get to experience some of the best regional food that one can have, but its all in the comfort of a quick cab ride from home, and finishes as always with a tipple at the Melbourne Wine Room. Oh, and the sommeliers themselves creating the marriages between this terrific food and the wines, snaps to you all. It really was another amazing and amazingly long lunch.

Slow Down @ Harley Court

My musings have been waylaid of late as I battled through the orgy of indulgence that was the 2010 Melbourne Food and Wine Festival.

So I am working backwards - starting with last night's stuff.

Slow Down @ Harley Court is the brainchild of David Carruthers of Dogs Bar in St Kilda. Having interviewed David and his chef Ron O'Bryan recently, I was invited to share a 'Chef's Table' event. 7 people, 6 courses, 5 wines. All around one table close to the kitchen where O'Bryan and his team are creating just a little magic.

We started with a cauliflower soup - I hate cauliflower but have to admit to enjoying tasting this - even though I couldn't finish it. Harks back to my childhood and my mothers innate ability to turn very good produce into very ordinary food. From which I have not recovered on some fronts.

A Mushroom and potato terrine was fantastic, followed by a locally caught snapper, This was served with fennel, chili and a stack of other clean flavours, and was presented to the table before it hit the kitchen again to be served. Impressively, the head was returned to us on a platter like John the Baptist, and myself and another brave man decided to go hunting for the cheeks of the fish...Yummo.

Next came not one but 2 piece's de resistance. Pork Belly with organic peas, roasted parnsips and a jus - sublime. Wagyu beef was cooked rare and with it all came brussel sprouts (thanks again Mum - I left those alone) some baby carrots, kipfler potatoes - all organic, all local and all tasting like food used to taste. Finishing with a chocolate and olive oil mousse, with rosemary salt and other accoutrements - sensational. Oh and then my favourite course - cheese. Six locally made cheeses that were the perfect finish to a wonderful meal.

The wines that were matched to the food were well chosen , from Rory Lane's Story Shiraz, to a beautiful Arnez from the Mornington Peninsula - all great, although the whites were a little too cold for my liking.

Carruthers and O'Bryan have landed on something that is not just great food, but socially aware. 95% of ingredients are sourced from within 200kms of the restaurant, including mixers, locally made bread, olives, butter - the works. What O'Bryan does with the produce is terrific. Great to get good produce and at times, easy to ruin it with bad preparation - not so here. Their passion for organic produce, the farmers that supply them and the manner in which it is all treated is evident, including photos on the wall of the restaurant and the menus. A nice touch indeed.

Do yourself and the environment a favour - book the chefs table and be taken back to the days when food tasted like food, where passing plates around the table evokes memories of days past and where the conviviality of great company, great wine and excellently prepared food is at the forefront of a great dining experience.

Don't be surprised if you bump into someone you know - this place is not going to be a secret for too long.

Tuesday, February 23, 2010

More My Kitchen Rules - Hello, Victoria?

What is wrong Victoria?

We are the home of good food in this country and yet, we have managed to scrape those couples in by the skin of their gorgeous (Noah and Clint) and ranga (Rowan and Sophie) butts.

Firstly to the Queenslanders last night ... how can you not love these two? They are so sweet, and clearly in love, and that is what presented itself on the plate – a whole bunch of love. Is it this group of couples that are the nice ones, after the bitchy, nasty ones that preceded them? I think so.

Awmygawdveronica could have gotten annoying but Shadi seemed to worship the ground she walks on. Cheesy a bit – maybe but they had it right – simple.... the KISS principle of Keep It Simple Stupid seems to work in this competition.

They are cheesy and pleasant, and I think they deserved the scores they got. Pete Evans, my man crush is dissipating. You are a dynamic, handsome, cheeky SOB but you seem so wet.... do I blame the producers? Maybe, but I know you and I want more of you and less Ita Buttrose. Be you man – that’s why we love you.

Now to Victoria tonight – what is there to say that hasn’t been tweeted, facebooked and commented on at water coolers around the country already? This menu looked amazing, the table was beautiful but, sadly, cracked under pressure. I wasn’t there to see it or taste it but that fish – Hello.. Revolting!! You can’t cook fish that early in the piece or treat food with such disrespect.

I wanted to eat that pigeon or have Pete feed it to me with his hands. It looked great and being a huge fan of the taro after living in the Pacific islands, I wanted that as well. I think 8 and 7 were great scores.

I think you were ripped off with dessert. To create a solution to a problem like you had ... I don’t know that I could have thought that up so quickly. Snaps for that!!

Ben and Deb – well he is hot, she is a cougar and the relationship looks fraught. However, they made a huge mistake in camp food – please leave to us queens. Its restaurant people – think of what you want on your plate.

So next week ... the girls from WA. I want to be there. They seem delightful and I think they will surprise the teams from elsewhere. Nothing like the pair of Queensland slappers in the first group and I think we can look forward to a bit of class and elegance.

I was going to swear off MKR after the first group of couples as there was little, apart from Noah and Clint, that gave me any inspiration. Maybe I am not so sworn off it now.

Let’s see what next week holds and whether my feeble attention can be held for more than 10 minutes.

Monday, February 8, 2010

My Kitchen Rules - again. Really?

Pete Evans and Manu Fieldel – you are so saving My Kitchen Rules for me with all of that lovely pervy goodness... but I digress.

Two Queensland girls who really should be cooking in a child care centre – sorry it sounds harsh but what were they thinking. Entree of a tasting plate – it looked good and I think I could almost smell it. I am loathe to make this comment but what the hell is with the frangipani overload? Please someone remind them that less is more before I throw up!

The entree did really look good and I would have inhaled it – four types of fresh seafood – all nicely prepared and kept with the essence of the seafood leading and everything else dancing in time. I think they did okay there but am over those bitchy South Australians and their caustic comments. Rude people, rude!

The lamb looked like it was in the oven for ever and then thrown from the other side of the room onto the plate. I think a simple sauce or jus might have helped soak up some of that rice – a few slow roasted cherry tomatoes just will not cut it ladies. Think about flavour and texture combinations next time.

Dessert was a disaster and for them to have been scored a 7 by each judge is a travesty of diabolical proportions – Pete and Manu – it had split!!! Rule number 1 with a gelatinised dessert – don’t let the bugger split! You can dress up a something but if it is not right, it is still a bloody something. A slurp of fresh fruit and a dollop of sabayon do not a dessert make.

Back to the bitchy South Australians again. They are so nasty I almost like them and god only knows what the hell sort of theatre restaurant event they are going to try and pull off with their ‘themed’ dinner parties. Looking at both of them, Witches in Britches comes to mind.

Tomorrow night I am waiting for that awful man from WA to cock up – the forward promos show that he is clearly going to lose the plot and with the snide comments made to his partner tonight, I reckon he looks like a complete asshole. I doubt I will be dissuaded on that idea tomorrow night.

This is still lightweight television really and I am looking forward to this first round being over so we might see some real challenges and less bloody ordinary suburban food. Pray that it happens sooner rather than later please.

I need a lie down – and a banana paddle pop.

If Seven really wants to get this right and challenge Master Chef, I hope like stink that they will get it right soon before I am tempted to hurt myself whilst watching it.

Sunday, February 7, 2010

Red Bennies

Hmmm I love a new bar as much as the next person, so much so that I try to attend as many as I can, often at the detriment of my innards.

I was at Red Bennies in South Yarra for a pre open event. It was fine but there were teething problems - no eftpos, only one white and one red available, and some rather uncomfortable garden furniture.... but it was a pre open and it was fun.

Perchance I was back again late last week, and this place has a lot to learn. The venue opens at 7pm and my birthday celebrating friend arrived with members of her family at the alotted time - some of whom had travelled from Perth to join her. The sound check was happening, people playing trumpets through to 8pm when most of the guests had arrived... and the noise was a bit annoying. Soundcheck before opening time will usually keep the punters happy please.

The venue needs to determine if it is a performance space or if it is a bar - never the twain shall meet here! Performance artists need an audience and I am suprised that the owners of Red Bennies need to be informed of this. They themselves are of the performing ilk....

Asher Treleaven, one of the funniest guys in Melbourne was at the mic as MC - the sound was appalling, the local idiots looking for a new venue in which to be seen and get smashed were in by the drove, and performers could not be heard. Thankfully one of the best performances was visual and to be honest, a man hanging from a couple of ropes in not much more than a blessing and some old fishnets will always manage to capture my attention above any hubbub..... but again, the lack of attention paid was astounding.

The issue is the door policy, and again, I maintain that if you are going to be a performance space, be mindful of what trash is allowed in the door. The smoking section, which I am a fan of, was so full one could not move, and the interior was full of aforementioned cashed up bogans trying to be cool.

I will wait the obligatory 2-3 months before I venture back, particularly knowing that there will be another venue for the cashed up, ed hardy wearing, marlboro smoking, beer drinking suburbanites to move on to where they can carouse with similar individuals in a new habitat, where they can be seen and smashed with aplomb.

Red Bennies - you have so much potential - please dont let me down. Melbourne needs you but she doesnt need another venue who is not sure of what it wants to be, thus allowing itself to be persuaded by the masses. Performace spaces that are cool, hip and serving good wine are too few. Strike three, you are out!

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

Australian Dairy Industry Awards

I love a bit of cheese - this usually is the discussion around my musical tastes, my choice of dessert and most of my wardrobe.... cheese, cheese, cheese.

But then I have the luxury of a couple of glasses of fizz, whilst people I have never heard of get awards... and I clap like I am at the golf. Alla Wolf Tasker - the perfect MC given her passion for regional food and the artisan approach to making stuff. She is the chef/owner of the Lakehouse in Daylesford, and was awarded an AM for her services to food. Rightly deserved as well.

I wondered if I would be excited for categories of 'dairy' that were deserving of awards. I wasn't sure but then, I am a tart for an award show so in the spirit of it being Australia's Cheese Oscars, I got amongst it.

Sadly the winners were drawn from the usual bunch. The major players in the industry were rewarded for having the monopolies they have - National Foods, Fonterra and Bulla. But there were some nice surprises and I think the most gracious of the recipients was one of the two Grand Champion Fatty Poobah awards.

Gundowring Finest Ice cream is a small family operated business attached to a dairy farm in NE Victoria. They run a dairy farm and there are a few interested family members making ice cream. The Licorice ice cream was the winner and I think this is fantastic news given the lack of recognition for small producers. Snaps to them - they are deserving to say the least.

As for the cheese winner of the fatty Poobah awards for Grand Champion - this is like the gold logie with no Bert Newton - it went to Tasmania's Heritage Brand for their Red Square washed rind cheese. Stinky, gooey and all things cheesy goodness, but I would have awarded the trophy elsewhere. With no disrespect to the winners, I think we produce extraordinary cheese in tiny places with amazing results.... Maybe I am being parochial because I am from Victoria, who produce 75% of the nations dairy products.

Anyways, a great afternoon, some reasonable Aussie fizz, some lovely people and I am looking forward even more now to the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival where I can bump into even more lovely folk and wax lyrical about all things food.

In the meantime, The Wicked Brie is exceptional, Yarra Valley Dairy's Persian Fetta sublime, and Doonybrook's Pastorello to be sought out immediately.

Bring on the cheese, or as Peter Russel Clark once said, 'Where's the Cheese?'

Tuesday, February 2, 2010

My Kitchen Rules or does it?

So, two nights into one of the most hyped food programs going around, second only to Master Chef of course ... and what do I think?
Firstly it is heading the way of most reality programs with bitchy contestants and the added bonus of some Bogans from north of all east coast borders. I get frustrated when reality television sets up people to look bad and South Australia, you are looking real bad.

The first night – NSW offered their best, which was not so exciting for me. Steak and Mash with a few beans, some seared barramundi and a lime cheesecake. There is not much there that excites the palate or inspires.

Tonight, the boys from Victoria strutted their stuff. Now what a handsome pair to start with – and there is the age old question. Are they just housemates or am I just a pervy bugger?

Their menu was too starchy – risotto and pasta as the two feature courses. I like the idea of the lobster risotto but some truffle oil will never a truffle make. The flavour, the texture and the absolute decadence of the truffle can never be matched by oil that is inferior in all ways. Bad mistake fellas.

Then to pasta that wasn’t cooked properly. There are kids that know how to cook pasta whether it is home made or store bought. Its a simple equation that sadly really let them down.

Thanks Christ for chocolate cake – the way to most people’s hearts is by the humble cacao bean and the offerings it produces. But, not for me. However, a total saving grace as it was put together beautifully. I am not convinced these two will make it.

What comes next? A couple of middle aged sisters from Queensland who seem to be lacking a few graces and one can only imagine what they will serve. The frangipani flowers behind the ears in the trailer are enough to make me very scared for next Monday.

Then there is WA – a state and people I am quite fond of. I am not fond, however, of the pair of teachers who seem to think that there is a certain solar presence emanating from somewhere in the downstairs department.

Now.... South Australia. If ever I saw a pair of trumped up, self obsessed wankers, that award goes to this pair. He appears to be a snotty little queen (and being a gay man, I have met on or two of those). The female of the pair strike me as a complete bitch. There, I said it.

I am sure I will get sucked into this show because I know that if there is food on the box, I will watch it. But as Pete Evans has suggested on tonight’s show, they need to aim a little higher.

To date it is ordinary television, infused with some particularly cheesy music to build drama, of which there is none.

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

We've only just begun....

Last night was Mr SO's (Significant Other) Birthday. I wanted to take him somewhere nice but worried that if I went too high end and special occasion, I would set the bar too high for future outings. So we went off to Mo Vida Acqui. The third of the Mo Vida chain based in Melbourne, Acqui is much larger and quite a different experience from the first two Mo's Vida.

Slightly industrial by design, it is a cool space that has an enormous amount of milk crates as part of its lighting structures - loved these. The rest of the space is eclectic but has a certain cool vibe that the restaurant needs.

Starters - hand filleted anchovies across a cheesy type wafer, with a smoked tomato sorbet. The clash of cold, salty, crispy and sweet was a cracker of a sensation in the gob and one worth trying again. Calamari sandwiches were interestingly presented but supremely morish in the gob as well. Thin strips of good calamari, lightly crumbed and jammed between a small white roll with oodles of aoli and some marinated little green peppers for good measure.

A platter of Jamon was great - introducing new sensations to SO was great... loved watching the Jamon melt on his tongue and the lights come on in his eyes.

Onto a huge dish of Arroz - rice with some duck, Buttafica sausage and chick peas. Its not every day the kitchen happily provides the recipes for anything but the staff were truly good at what they do. Oh- back to the rice - beautifully prepared again, slightly lacking in some kick to match the heat of the sausages and maybe a little more duck wouldnt have gone astray, but all in all, excellent.

Tempted by dessert for all of 30 seconds, we had to decline.

What would I do differently were I in charge? The greeting left both of us cold - we wondered were we intruding? Said person warmed up later when swinging by for a chat and overhearing our comments... and ended up providing us with said sausage recipe. Mark looked after us so very well and was clearly 'of the faith' and seemed to work out that we were somehow 'involved'.

A lovely little Spanish Verdejo was the perfect marriage to the above foods, after a cava starter....

I love Mo Vida - always have - back to the days when Mykal was the man in charge and the perve was as good as the food. The perve is now at CODA but I am a fan of the new Mo Vida Acqui and maybe, it might outstrip the others as my Mo Vida of choice.....

If I were the counting type, a 7.5 of 10 would be something in the ball park.

Tonight - Lucky Coq on High Street for Pizza and Beer before a Gay Ole Cabaret at Red Bennies.