Slow Down @ Harley Court

My musings have been waylaid of late as I battled through the orgy of indulgence that was the 2010 Melbourne Food and Wine Festival.

So I am working backwards - starting with last night's stuff.

Slow Down @ Harley Court is the brainchild of David Carruthers of Dogs Bar in St Kilda. Having interviewed David and his chef Ron O'Bryan recently, I was invited to share a 'Chef's Table' event. 7 people, 6 courses, 5 wines. All around one table close to the kitchen where O'Bryan and his team are creating just a little magic.

We started with a cauliflower soup - I hate cauliflower but have to admit to enjoying tasting this - even though I couldn't finish it. Harks back to my childhood and my mothers innate ability to turn very good produce into very ordinary food. From which I have not recovered on some fronts.

A Mushroom and potato terrine was fantastic, followed by a locally caught snapper, This was served with fennel, chili and a stack of other clean flavours, and was presented to the table before it hit the kitchen again to be served. Impressively, the head was returned to us on a platter like John the Baptist, and myself and another brave man decided to go hunting for the cheeks of the fish...Yummo.

Next came not one but 2 piece's de resistance. Pork Belly with organic peas, roasted parnsips and a jus - sublime. Wagyu beef was cooked rare and with it all came brussel sprouts (thanks again Mum - I left those alone) some baby carrots, kipfler potatoes - all organic, all local and all tasting like food used to taste. Finishing with a chocolate and olive oil mousse, with rosemary salt and other accoutrements - sensational. Oh and then my favourite course - cheese. Six locally made cheeses that were the perfect finish to a wonderful meal.

The wines that were matched to the food were well chosen , from Rory Lane's Story Shiraz, to a beautiful Arnez from the Mornington Peninsula - all great, although the whites were a little too cold for my liking.

Carruthers and O'Bryan have landed on something that is not just great food, but socially aware. 95% of ingredients are sourced from within 200kms of the restaurant, including mixers, locally made bread, olives, butter - the works. What O'Bryan does with the produce is terrific. Great to get good produce and at times, easy to ruin it with bad preparation - not so here. Their passion for organic produce, the farmers that supply them and the manner in which it is all treated is evident, including photos on the wall of the restaurant and the menus. A nice touch indeed.

Do yourself and the environment a favour - book the chefs table and be taken back to the days when food tasted like food, where passing plates around the table evokes memories of days past and where the conviviality of great company, great wine and excellently prepared food is at the forefront of a great dining experience.

Don't be surprised if you bump into someone you know - this place is not going to be a secret for too long.