Every now and then, I get to take part in something special. This happens more frequently than my liver would like but Monday 29th March, it was damn the liver.
Andrew McConnell is one talented human being, and when you line up his exceptional food, with the talents of 4 of the most exciting female wine makers in the nation, add in some Jane Faulkner magic as an MC and have it all overseen by the talented Sally Humble, you have a recipe for one hell of a great night. And it was.
Sisters are doing it for themselves featured the wines of Kerri Thompson of KT and the Falcon, the fabulous Kim Chalmers of Chalmers Wines, Rebecca Wilson of Bremerton and very new mum, Sue Bell from Bellweather Wines. The four women sat in a room full of admiration for their exciting talents, and shared the secrets of where they came from and how they managed to develop careers in a industry that is no longer dominated by traditional varietals and men.
Kicking of with some terrific Melva Riesling from KT, the crowd gathered to renew old friendships and make some news ones. Half of the crowd I think are former or current Sunraysians, so it felt a little like old home week!!
Heirloom tomato salad, with marinated vegetables, fromage blanc, tarragon and almond aillade was the first course offered up by Mr McConnell at Cutler and Co. Teamed with KT's Peglidis Riesling and Chalmers 09 Vermentino, we knew a great meal was ahead of us.
Salad Lyonnaise, Frisee Salad with crisp pancetta, garlic sausage, smoked tongue, confit gizzards and poached yolk was the next course, and regardless of the use of the word gizzards, this was another triumph. Bellweather Chardonnay from Tamar Valley in Tassie, and the 08 Bremerton Reserve Chardonnay from SA were teamed here. Bec Wilson's first attempt at Chardonnay was great as was the cooler climate Tamar offering.
My favourite dish of the night was a confit ocean trout, with smoked onion, seaweed vinegar, beetroot and rye. Deftly executed, the marriage of flavour, colour texture and scent was awesome. Teamed with a Chalmers Negroamaro Rosato and a Nero d'Avola, the combination was exquisite.
As if we needed more food, braised goat with white polenta baby carrots and wilted greens followed, all of which were awesome. This was my second meal of goat in a couple of weeks and was awesome. An '06 Bellweather Cabernet Sauvignon from Coonawara, and an 05 Bremerton Reserve Cabernet from Langhorne Creek both worked so very well with the goat and the accoutrement.
Finally, after what should have been a run around the block (but was really a walk outside for some air), we were served a delightful combination of macerated prunes with some chocolate ganache and an earl grey ice cream. A terrific dish and was team with 2 wonderful wines chosen by Sally Humble from Maury, a tiny appellation in southern France. An '05 Maury Mas Amiel Vintage Reserve, and a Mas Amiel Cuvee Speciale 10 ans d'age were excellent.
I am rolling around this morning, contemplating the damage to my body and wondering if I will need to eat before the Easter Bunny finds me.
There are plans for more of the events to happen around Australia, including one in Mildura and one in Adelaide.
Thanks to the amazing team of women who made this happen, especially Kim Chalmers. It was en evening incredibly well spent and I am sure I will have to follow the ladies around the country to ensure I get to do it again.
Monday, March 29, 2010
Wednesday, March 24, 2010
Gala Dinner at Prahran Market - MFWF
Dining among fruit and vegetable stalls, surrounded by strawberries and squash, mangoes and mandarins, under Chinese lanterns in what is the temple of fresh food in Melbourne is not an experience one has every day. From the moment of arrival at this sumptous affair, we were in for so many treats.
Christian Wagstaff designed the market tables with what appeared to be a country theme, and they were beautiful. Sprays of sunflowers, pots of edible herbs that became part of the entrees, hessian overlays on the tables and enough conviviality to sink a ship, the space was transformed to an evening in the country.
Roving the market were some very talented dancer/actor/juggling/theatrey type folk, some of whom were hard to keep eyes and hands off! They added some wonderful atmosphere to the evening as we wandered through so many courses of indulgence. French named wines from California complimented each course and I am pleased to say I saw my fair share!
The food was prepared by the stars of America visiting chefs, who had taken up residence at Crown.
Sea scallops as an entree were terrific, and snipping little pots of basil, corainder, watercress and other fines herbs over the top was part of the fun, and they all sat well with the pomegranate seeds that seemed to be everywhere this year.
Fish followed - and what a dish. Again, self service from the fish plates along with more snippy snips on the herbs allowed one to indulge one's preferences with ease.
Lamb racks came next and were accompanied by some kipfler potatoes, asparagus and other bits and bobs, some of which could have had a bit more time over the heat. Slightly raw potatoes and asparagus is not the end of the world however and the lamb itself was delicious. More wine from Coldstream Hills and California flowed with the conversations and the walking between market stalls to enjoy the company of the several hundred guests that were gathered.
Dessert is never something I indulge in, however, I couldn't stop. In an homage to cheesecake, Nonna's Torta, served with three types of Victorian honey was absolutely sublime... Crisp top, a not too sweet cheesy type filling on a crisp base with the honeys was exceptional, and my highlight of the dinner.
The crowd moved out to market square to enjoy more wine, cocktails, coffee and pastries, cheeses and all manner of indulgent goodies and before I knew, it was very late and new and old friendships were kindled over many of these goodies.
In what is always my highlight of the festival, I can safely say that MFWF and The Stars of America gave us a perfect evening of indulgence, and allowed me to start preparing my liver and other organs for next year's festivities.
Christian Wagstaff designed the market tables with what appeared to be a country theme, and they were beautiful. Sprays of sunflowers, pots of edible herbs that became part of the entrees, hessian overlays on the tables and enough conviviality to sink a ship, the space was transformed to an evening in the country.
Roving the market were some very talented dancer/actor/juggling/theatrey type folk, some of whom were hard to keep eyes and hands off! They added some wonderful atmosphere to the evening as we wandered through so many courses of indulgence. French named wines from California complimented each course and I am pleased to say I saw my fair share!
The food was prepared by the stars of America visiting chefs, who had taken up residence at Crown.
Sea scallops as an entree were terrific, and snipping little pots of basil, corainder, watercress and other fines herbs over the top was part of the fun, and they all sat well with the pomegranate seeds that seemed to be everywhere this year.
Fish followed - and what a dish. Again, self service from the fish plates along with more snippy snips on the herbs allowed one to indulge one's preferences with ease.
Lamb racks came next and were accompanied by some kipfler potatoes, asparagus and other bits and bobs, some of which could have had a bit more time over the heat. Slightly raw potatoes and asparagus is not the end of the world however and the lamb itself was delicious. More wine from Coldstream Hills and California flowed with the conversations and the walking between market stalls to enjoy the company of the several hundred guests that were gathered.
Dessert is never something I indulge in, however, I couldn't stop. In an homage to cheesecake, Nonna's Torta, served with three types of Victorian honey was absolutely sublime... Crisp top, a not too sweet cheesy type filling on a crisp base with the honeys was exceptional, and my highlight of the dinner.
The crowd moved out to market square to enjoy more wine, cocktails, coffee and pastries, cheeses and all manner of indulgent goodies and before I knew, it was very late and new and old friendships were kindled over many of these goodies.
In what is always my highlight of the festival, I can safely say that MFWF and The Stars of America gave us a perfect evening of indulgence, and allowed me to start preparing my liver and other organs for next year's festivities.
World's Longest Lunch
What happens when you throw 1000 people together, along some very well presented tables, that run the length of one of Melbourne's main thoroughfares? The World's Longest Lunch .. one of a series of longest lunches to happen across Victoria to kick of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival.
And what a lunch it was. I am not sure how many of these I have now attended, but I can recall getting home from at least 4 of them at some stage that could easily be described as a long time after lunch.
Under the knowing hand of Tony Tan, one of the Creative Directors of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival, I can safely say that this was the best food I had consumed at one of these events. A celebration of all things cultural, Chinese and Melbourne, tables were decked out along the front of the National Gallery of Victoria and the Arts Centre forecourt.
With Peter Rowland managing the catering for 1000 hungry mouths,a mixed entree that included soft shell crab with black beans, four seasons dumpling and chilli spiced duck salad was terrifically presented and pleasing to the gob. Exceptional company at the table and a series of new best friends to enjoy the food with made the experience even better. Wines from Scotchmans Hill on the Bellarine Peninsula suffered a little in the glorious sunshine that shone over the event for the day.
A main course of lamb cooked in a master stock was deftly handled and tasted terrific. Again, with 1000 hungry folk, the possibility of cocking this up was higher than usual but happily, it was excellent. Harder to execute was a dessert - terracotta teapots held some dry ice with a stunning coconut sorbet on top, all arriving to the table without melting, alongside mango brulee with lychees,
poached peach and raspberry coulis and sesame tuile. Poached is a loose term in reference to the peach but apart from that, another difficult dish pulled off well.
Parades of Chinese themed entertainment with dragons, parasols and martial arts displays lent some theatre to the lunch.
My news best friends and I ended up in the National Gallery after lunch perusing the Mueck exhibition, and strangely, more wine, martinis and a sumptuous dinner at La Luna in Carlton closed out the day.
Looking forward to next years gathering where no doubt there will be more new best friends made and another reason to take lunch to dinner as we celebrate all that is good in Melbourne in March at the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival.
And what a lunch it was. I am not sure how many of these I have now attended, but I can recall getting home from at least 4 of them at some stage that could easily be described as a long time after lunch.
Under the knowing hand of Tony Tan, one of the Creative Directors of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival, I can safely say that this was the best food I had consumed at one of these events. A celebration of all things cultural, Chinese and Melbourne, tables were decked out along the front of the National Gallery of Victoria and the Arts Centre forecourt.
With Peter Rowland managing the catering for 1000 hungry mouths,a mixed entree that included soft shell crab with black beans, four seasons dumpling and chilli spiced duck salad was terrifically presented and pleasing to the gob. Exceptional company at the table and a series of new best friends to enjoy the food with made the experience even better. Wines from Scotchmans Hill on the Bellarine Peninsula suffered a little in the glorious sunshine that shone over the event for the day.
A main course of lamb cooked in a master stock was deftly handled and tasted terrific. Again, with 1000 hungry folk, the possibility of cocking this up was higher than usual but happily, it was excellent. Harder to execute was a dessert - terracotta teapots held some dry ice with a stunning coconut sorbet on top, all arriving to the table without melting, alongside mango brulee with lychees,
poached peach and raspberry coulis and sesame tuile. Poached is a loose term in reference to the peach but apart from that, another difficult dish pulled off well.
Parades of Chinese themed entertainment with dragons, parasols and martial arts displays lent some theatre to the lunch.
My news best friends and I ended up in the National Gallery after lunch perusing the Mueck exhibition, and strangely, more wine, martinis and a sumptuous dinner at La Luna in Carlton closed out the day.
Looking forward to next years gathering where no doubt there will be more new best friends made and another reason to take lunch to dinner as we celebrate all that is good in Melbourne in March at the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival.
Appropriately Long Lunch
Sommeliers Australia knows how to bang together a lunch that showcases exceptional wines, matched with some of the best regional produce and chefs to cook it, in a room that has seen a lot of action in its years - Ormond Hall.
This was the third of these events that Ben Edwards and Dan Sims have produced for the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival - and might I say, they get better every year.
With a table full of appropriately wine and food loving folk, and an opportunity to share some wonderful experiences - the day started very well.
The Provenance (Michael Ryan) gave us a fresh zucchini and tomato dish with Parmesan jelly - a good way to start the day. Wines were well matched.
The Loam's Aaron Turner, who is used to feeding 40, turned out 210 quail dishes, served with tapioca and whey potatoes - they were terrific, but could have done with just a little more punch for me. Great texture, a bit short on flavour.
From Red Cliffs Old Fire Station, almost a suburb of Mildura in the Sunraysia district, Stefano di Pieri's former right hand man, Ash Allford served us some local goat on polenta that had been braising for goodness knows how long. Apart from it being a little watery, it was excellent. There was a lot of love in that room for the young goat. A citrus gremolata cut through to soften the richness of the Mallee goat. Nicely played.
Cheese was from the Yarra Valley dairy and was terrific, and Pierre Roelofs created a wonderful dessert with corn, mandarin chocolate and other bits and pieces. I had to pass on this, not from overindulgence but a lack of love for the sweetie things at the end of lunch.
Sommeliers David Clarke from Vue de Monde, Jeanette Clarke of La Vita Buona, Penny Grant from Maze, Mark Protheroe from Charcoal Grill on the Hill and Carly Haren from Collins Quarter matched 2 wines with every course. Stand out wines for this little black duck's palate included the Chalmers Aglianico, 2005 – Murray Darling, Victoria, and the Lethbridge ‘Menage a Noir’ Pinot Noir, 2008 – Geelong, Victoria.
The Boys and their team at Somms Australia are to be congratulated - not only do we get to experience some of the best regional food that one can have, but its all in the comfort of a quick cab ride from home, and finishes as always with a tipple at the Melbourne Wine Room. Oh, and the sommeliers themselves creating the marriages between this terrific food and the wines, snaps to you all. It really was another amazing and amazingly long lunch.
This was the third of these events that Ben Edwards and Dan Sims have produced for the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival - and might I say, they get better every year.
With a table full of appropriately wine and food loving folk, and an opportunity to share some wonderful experiences - the day started very well.
The Provenance (Michael Ryan) gave us a fresh zucchini and tomato dish with Parmesan jelly - a good way to start the day. Wines were well matched.
The Loam's Aaron Turner, who is used to feeding 40, turned out 210 quail dishes, served with tapioca and whey potatoes - they were terrific, but could have done with just a little more punch for me. Great texture, a bit short on flavour.
From Red Cliffs Old Fire Station, almost a suburb of Mildura in the Sunraysia district, Stefano di Pieri's former right hand man, Ash Allford served us some local goat on polenta that had been braising for goodness knows how long. Apart from it being a little watery, it was excellent. There was a lot of love in that room for the young goat. A citrus gremolata cut through to soften the richness of the Mallee goat. Nicely played.
Cheese was from the Yarra Valley dairy and was terrific, and Pierre Roelofs created a wonderful dessert with corn, mandarin chocolate and other bits and pieces. I had to pass on this, not from overindulgence but a lack of love for the sweetie things at the end of lunch.
Sommeliers David Clarke from Vue de Monde, Jeanette Clarke of La Vita Buona, Penny Grant from Maze, Mark Protheroe from Charcoal Grill on the Hill and Carly Haren from Collins Quarter matched 2 wines with every course. Stand out wines for this little black duck's palate included the Chalmers Aglianico, 2005 – Murray Darling, Victoria, and the Lethbridge ‘Menage a Noir’ Pinot Noir, 2008 – Geelong, Victoria.
The Boys and their team at Somms Australia are to be congratulated - not only do we get to experience some of the best regional food that one can have, but its all in the comfort of a quick cab ride from home, and finishes as always with a tipple at the Melbourne Wine Room. Oh, and the sommeliers themselves creating the marriages between this terrific food and the wines, snaps to you all. It really was another amazing and amazingly long lunch.
Slow Down @ Harley Court
My musings have been waylaid of late as I battled through the orgy of indulgence that was the 2010 Melbourne Food and Wine Festival.
So I am working backwards - starting with last night's stuff.
Slow Down @ Harley Court is the brainchild of David Carruthers of Dogs Bar in St Kilda. Having interviewed David and his chef Ron O'Bryan recently, I was invited to share a 'Chef's Table' event. 7 people, 6 courses, 5 wines. All around one table close to the kitchen where O'Bryan and his team are creating just a little magic.
We started with a cauliflower soup - I hate cauliflower but have to admit to enjoying tasting this - even though I couldn't finish it. Harks back to my childhood and my mothers innate ability to turn very good produce into very ordinary food. From which I have not recovered on some fronts.
A Mushroom and potato terrine was fantastic, followed by a locally caught snapper, This was served with fennel, chili and a stack of other clean flavours, and was presented to the table before it hit the kitchen again to be served. Impressively, the head was returned to us on a platter like John the Baptist, and myself and another brave man decided to go hunting for the cheeks of the fish...Yummo.
Next came not one but 2 piece's de resistance. Pork Belly with organic peas, roasted parnsips and a jus - sublime. Wagyu beef was cooked rare and with it all came brussel sprouts (thanks again Mum - I left those alone) some baby carrots, kipfler potatoes - all organic, all local and all tasting like food used to taste. Finishing with a chocolate and olive oil mousse, with rosemary salt and other accoutrements - sensational. Oh and then my favourite course - cheese. Six locally made cheeses that were the perfect finish to a wonderful meal.
The wines that were matched to the food were well chosen , from Rory Lane's Story Shiraz, to a beautiful Arnez from the Mornington Peninsula - all great, although the whites were a little too cold for my liking.
Carruthers and O'Bryan have landed on something that is not just great food, but socially aware. 95% of ingredients are sourced from within 200kms of the restaurant, including mixers, locally made bread, olives, butter - the works. What O'Bryan does with the produce is terrific. Great to get good produce and at times, easy to ruin it with bad preparation - not so here. Their passion for organic produce, the farmers that supply them and the manner in which it is all treated is evident, including photos on the wall of the restaurant and the menus. A nice touch indeed.
Do yourself and the environment a favour - book the chefs table and be taken back to the days when food tasted like food, where passing plates around the table evokes memories of days past and where the conviviality of great company, great wine and excellently prepared food is at the forefront of a great dining experience.
Don't be surprised if you bump into someone you know - this place is not going to be a secret for too long.
So I am working backwards - starting with last night's stuff.
Slow Down @ Harley Court is the brainchild of David Carruthers of Dogs Bar in St Kilda. Having interviewed David and his chef Ron O'Bryan recently, I was invited to share a 'Chef's Table' event. 7 people, 6 courses, 5 wines. All around one table close to the kitchen where O'Bryan and his team are creating just a little magic.
We started with a cauliflower soup - I hate cauliflower but have to admit to enjoying tasting this - even though I couldn't finish it. Harks back to my childhood and my mothers innate ability to turn very good produce into very ordinary food. From which I have not recovered on some fronts.
A Mushroom and potato terrine was fantastic, followed by a locally caught snapper, This was served with fennel, chili and a stack of other clean flavours, and was presented to the table before it hit the kitchen again to be served. Impressively, the head was returned to us on a platter like John the Baptist, and myself and another brave man decided to go hunting for the cheeks of the fish...Yummo.
Next came not one but 2 piece's de resistance. Pork Belly with organic peas, roasted parnsips and a jus - sublime. Wagyu beef was cooked rare and with it all came brussel sprouts (thanks again Mum - I left those alone) some baby carrots, kipfler potatoes - all organic, all local and all tasting like food used to taste. Finishing with a chocolate and olive oil mousse, with rosemary salt and other accoutrements - sensational. Oh and then my favourite course - cheese. Six locally made cheeses that were the perfect finish to a wonderful meal.
The wines that were matched to the food were well chosen , from Rory Lane's Story Shiraz, to a beautiful Arnez from the Mornington Peninsula - all great, although the whites were a little too cold for my liking.
Carruthers and O'Bryan have landed on something that is not just great food, but socially aware. 95% of ingredients are sourced from within 200kms of the restaurant, including mixers, locally made bread, olives, butter - the works. What O'Bryan does with the produce is terrific. Great to get good produce and at times, easy to ruin it with bad preparation - not so here. Their passion for organic produce, the farmers that supply them and the manner in which it is all treated is evident, including photos on the wall of the restaurant and the menus. A nice touch indeed.
Do yourself and the environment a favour - book the chefs table and be taken back to the days when food tasted like food, where passing plates around the table evokes memories of days past and where the conviviality of great company, great wine and excellently prepared food is at the forefront of a great dining experience.
Don't be surprised if you bump into someone you know - this place is not going to be a secret for too long.
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